After scraping my knees and my ego in the surf this morning, I needed a reminder that this whole surfing thing—and life itself—is about the long game. And nobody embodies that better than Nancy.
In this episode, Nancy shares her story of picking up surfing later in life, breaking bones (and coming back for more), traveling the world to chase waves, and finding a community of women who remind her that age is no reason to stop doing what you love.