Laura Day didn’t grow up surfing—but you’d never know it. In this episode, the San Diego noserider and founder of The Surf Société tells the story of how she went from beach-loving college student to the creator of a women-led surf community and podcast (Confessions of a Surf Lady).
We talk about what it's like learning to surf when all your friends are dudes, the joy of finally cross-stepping on your own terms, and the power of surf visualization (including her own “die on the five” method). Laura and I agree on a lot in this episode, including our mutual frustration with GoPro.