Ep. 10 -- Surfing is about riding the wave . . . not reaching the sand

What's the point of surfing? To get back to the sand? To play it safe? To avoid the waves? Or is the point of surfing -- to riiiiide the wave...

What's the point of life? To reach the final destination? To play it safe? To avoid the desire-and-clarity-enhancing contrast? Or is the point of life -- to liiiiiive that life...

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